Chosen Solution

The door button on my G.E. Profile Microwave broke. When pushed, the button makes no contact with mechanism behind it. There is no resistance like there is when it is functioning. Therefore, the door cannot be opened and the turntable continues to go around slowly (without the microwave heating mechanism running).

I had the same problem. The plastic post that holds the cam that pushes up on the door latch had sheared off. Really not a good design considering the repetitive force on that post. Luckily, the post is hollow! Once you have access to the inside of the microwave, it’s likely that you will see the cam and the sheared-off post sitting on the bottom of the unit. You will see a small circular impression on the black plastic board that has the switches on it– next to the very bottom switch. You can drill a small hole in the center of this depression and put a small machine bolt through, with a washer and nut on the other side, and then push the cam back on the post. The cam locks on a small tab next to the reattached post. Total cost of parts for this repair was $0.70 for me at my local Ace hardware. You’ll find the right parts in the small specialty screw and fastener bins. I hope this helps.

Just adding to the info above after fortunately finding this website after my “plastic post” broke on my built-in GE Profile microwave . When you push the button to open the door like you have numerous times before but this time you hear a snap and feel the button go all the way in freely you’ll hopefully find your way here. First thing to do is unplug the microwave so that the light will go out and the turntable will stop turning. You’ll have to unplug it anyway to remove it from the wall to fix the post. After you use the thin piece of cardboard to jimmy the door open the next task is to figure out where all the screws are holding the trim piece on and then the ones mounting the unit to the wall/cabinent. Once you get it out of the wall/cabinent and remove the housing a quick search will find the broken plastic post and the “plastic cam” that rotates on the post laying somewhere. After you actually see these parts and where they should be you’ll realize what a lousy design GE has come up with to actuate opening a door ! Talk about planned obsolecence !! Now the reason for my post…if you don’t make the effort to use a 4-40 screw , nut and washers to remount this plastic post to where it broke off you’ll just end up right back with a broken microwave down the road when the plastic post breaks off again. That’s what I’d expect if you had a GE repairman or anyone else replace the entire plastic assembly and restore it back to the way it was designed. By remounting the plastic post with hardware you’ll actually be improving the original design considerably and hopefully you won’t ever have to do it again !! The only other thing I want to add is to make sure you use a 4-40 machine screw that has a head big enough to keep the plastic cam part from sliding over it. Use a washer if needed but you don’t want the plastic cam to be able to slide off the post once the post is screwed to the main plastic frame piece. Also, I used a 1.25 inch long machine screw as I found it a lot easier to get the washer and nut on it…there’s plenty of space. That’s it…good luck ! You’ll feel a lot better about the whole debacle once you have everything put back together and the microwave is working again as intended (and now improved !)

A few tips to add to the previous helpful posts:

  1. Use a flat thin (~1” x 5”) flexible plastic strip (cut from a plastic disposable food container) to jimmy the microwave door open.
  2. Use a thin screwdriver or stiff metal wire (e.g., from a wire clothes hanger) to pop the trim screw covers (if you have them) from the other side so as to not scratch the pop-on covers.
  3. Keep the microwave level when moving it, so the broken cam piece doesn’t get lost under the microwave.
  4. Use a Torx security T15 bit to open the case.
  5. Use a minimum 1 inch #4-40 screw and nut. It will be easier if the screw is 1.25" or 1.5".
  6. Put a tooth/serrated washer before the nut to prevent loosening. I did it the first time without the washer and the screw loosened, the post got wobbly, and the plastic lever popped out after 8 months. So I put a tooth washer in the second time.

My GE profile microwave suffered the same fate. The ridiculously flimsy post had snapped off, but I was able to repair it with these instructions and a #4-40 1.25 inch screw and nut. It took me a while to figure out how to put the cam piece back on, but I got there eventually. Thanks to all of you who posted information about this fix!! It was very helpful.

You have to be able to open it to repair it. Be sure to unplug it before working it. You may be able to use a flat head screwdriver to push the mechanism by inserting it on the right side after you have depressed the button but you’re probably out of luck on this on. In case you do get it open, here’s my answer on how to fix it once you can get to it Microwave door button spring

Dave’s answer is a good one and it helped me quite a bit. Key points from my experience: 1) use a thin piece of carboard to slide in the right side of the door and lift up the hooks holding the door closed. 2) Bite the bullet and take off the surround ( another crappy part of an overall crappy design, but I digress.) and remove the microwave from the cabinet. Not too bad… only 2 additional screws. Unplug it or course… Probably a good first step. 3) take out about 8 little screws and remove the housing. Be very careful once you get inside… don’t mess with any of the electrical connections. These things have capacitors that hold a charge and blast you!. 4) Find the incredibly insufficient post that has broken off probably just after the warranty period. I used a #4-40 x 1” screw and nut, and some E6000 glue to glue/bolt the post back on. 5) Put the whole mess back together and reinstall. I think the root cause of the failure is that it is possible to push the release button too far (no hard stop) and over stress the ridiculously tiny plastic post. So I have cautioned the family to just push the button enough to release the door and no more. Before ours failed it got to where we had to push the button harder and farther. If this starts to happen to you and you are still under warranty report it and get it fixed. If it is not under warranty you may want to make a preemptory repair. Good luck.

It’s hard to see, but if you zoom in, you may be able to get the gist of it

I had this problem with a GE Profile microwave model PEB7227SL1SS. I did what was described in the other answers, and I also found this video of the exact repair I needed: https://youtu.be/uNMXgNJgo8o

First, much thanks to the folks who posted the original solution. Having the same exact problem, this worked for my GE MW perfectly. Luckily I happened to have the needed materials in my toolbox. In additional to using washers on both front and rear of mechanism, I used a spring washer on the back to avoid loosening of the nut over time. Instructions to remove the MW from the cabinet is in this video to fixing another problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzU7Icgs…

The plastic piece that pushes the latch to open the door is broken. I have had the same thing happen. The piece has a plastic post that’s about a 1/4” in diameter and this pin/post pushes the latch up to clear the holes to open the door. This piece seems surprisingly weak comparing to the force it takes to overcome the spring load. You have to take the main covering apart to get to the part. You will need to replace the part. On the same plastic is an electrical switch mounted that gets activated when the door is open and stops the glass dish rotating inside. Because the switch doesn’t get triggered the dish continues to spin even when the microwave is not on.

Hey, use a piece or cardboard to release the latch by sliding it in the door and raising it up. Next, take out the 4 screws around the cabinate case. There will be 4-6 screws on the microwave mount to the cabinet, remove them. Take the microwave out (unplug it) and remove the screws to the outer casing. Once that is done you will probably need to replace the “board latch”. There is a piece of plastic the door switch it mounted on that probably snapped off.

I suffered the same problem this morning and I am glad I found this site. I couldn’t jimmy the door latches open with cardboard, but a piece from a plastic milk carton was thin and flexible enough, but strong enough to do the job. I took the cover off and located the problem. My little post was still partially attached, so nothing had fallen out and it wasn’t obvious where the issue was. I shut the door and worked the latch and could see the cam mechanism just flexing out of the way. I decided to pull the plastic assembly out of the unit by detaching the wires (take pictures!) and removing two screws. With the piece out I could see that the hole where everyone runs the screw was partially blocked by a small stiffening rib in the casting. I used a Dremel tool to remove just enough of this to allow a machine bolt head to sit perfectly flat. I found that a number 8 machine screw was a perfect fit for the diameter of the hole in the broken peg. I inserted the screw, slipped the peg over it, installed the cam mechanism on the peg followed by a washer and two nuts (jammed against each other to prevent any slippage and with a drop of blue LockTite). Reassembled and I am back in business.

All, This happened to me yesterday, I got the microwave out of the surround got the bottom off, found the piece, but not exactly sure where it goes back to. Mine has a plastic piece that sort of swivels when the button is pushed. I dont see anything where this piece goes. on a side note not only did the little “peg” fall out, there is another piece that came out that has a hole about the size of the peg in it. I am guessing that peg and this piece fit together. My question is this. Do I need to take the door off, the whole case of the microwave? Thank you very much.

So I was able to fix the door mechanism following the directions above. Thank you. However when it is plugged back in, the dish continues to rotate even when not started. Any ideas?

Anyone have a picture if how the cam goes on the plastic part that breaks off?

I agree with James Hollister . In my case the hinge axel didn’t break. I took the dumb thing apart cleaned it put it back together and it worked. Then it started acting up again, I had to slightly lift the door and the it worked again. Now several months later it works like new. Go figure.

ge microwave model je42a001 part number ps254963 button latch, as per diagram of ‘‘part select’‘the number in diagram is 1832. This part came off/out of microwave. How do i replace this back into microwave. you press down on part to open the microwave door.

Microwave door won’t open when I press the button turn table keeps moving. How do I repair ?