Chosen Solution

What thermal fuse temperature rating do I need for replacement fuses?

This is what I found on your model " The Cuisinart DCC-1200 doesn’t appear to use a thermal fuse but instead seems to use a NTC Thermistor. Like thermal fuses this is clipped onto the bottom heating element and has two yellow fine lines leading to the control board. It should measure ~220k Ohms at room temp and drop its resistance to <20K ohms as water boils. This Thermistor looks and behaves a lot like a Vishay NTCLG100E22245B [220KOhmn] which is available through DigiKey [BC2467 part number; $0.52]" hope this helps to enjoy your java :)

Well people … I think I blew it …. I got the thermistor oleturky recomended and replaced it, but also went to Radio-Shack and bought 2 THERMAL FUSES (226 degree C) and replaced them at the same time (thats where I blew it). The coffe pot now works fine. Brews like a champ. I should have tested after replacing the “THEMISTOR” and if it didn’t work … then replace the “THERMAL FUSES”. Sorry about that …..

Some more info from my recent repair …no#3 for the hoses which also got one of the element thermal fuses too this time. I used 1/2" Pex and 90° couplings/rings this time as the orange tubes are too short now for that repair . You still need 1 1/2" inches of the rubber each end to reconnect to the machine at both ends. Pex Crimps work on the Rubber hoses too, no need for hose Clamps I found. Note: I am not an electronics/electrical expert so feel free to add/correct the info from my notes below. No formatting allowed here , so apologies if hard to read.

  • need 2 THERMAL FUSES (240 degree C) on existing = microtemp 6YGCQE / G4A00 /TF 240C = Microtemp Thermal Cutoff; 240 C, 120 VAC, 15A Equivalents:
  • Thermodisc - G4A01240C
  • NTE - NTE8242
  • Newark - 30C5836
  • GA401 = GA400 but with 2 long leads , GA400 has one long ,one short
  • found locally at Electronic Parts Store — I replaced one after testing both for continuity ( used 200K setting = 0.05 if =1= DEAD )
  • I Used (NEC?) SEFUSE _ SF240E 240°C ( 200° holding) Jet 250V 10Amp CO985 (came with crimps)
  • DONT cut old fuse off tight to element , leave the old lead, it was WELDED not soldered to the element, and trying to solder directly to element is difficult , use crimps if possible, as Solder heat may damage Fuse too if you get it to hot.
  • Also :
  • Element NTC Thermistor (small resistor under Clip with yellow wires) not replaced as working at this time.
  • Used 2000k setting to test Resistance = 189 (should be around 200 at room temp)
  • Inet Info: BC2467-ND (DigiKey # ) = NTCLG100E2224JB (Vishay?) 220k

In case anybody is interested in this old thread - digikey no longer sells the NTCLG100E2224JB thermistor, says it is obsolete. Vishay doesn’t list any distributors. I’ve spent some time looking for a comparable replacement part, or the same part at other distributors, but no joy. Looks like my coffee maker goes to the landfill, for want of a 52-cent part :-(

crimp on one side of the thermistor. Slide silicone sheath on. Slide silver piece on. crimp other end.

You need to replace both the thermister and the thermal fuses to be sure you have these things fixed. I checked the thermister and it seemed to have the right readings. Replaced the thermal fuses which were both bad and it worked for about a week then both were gone again. Replaced them and it worked one cycle and gone again. Turns out the thermister is not cutting back as required for the caraf warming cycle, resulting in overheating when brew is done. The fuses then melt to protect it.

I just ordered 2 (1 spare ((for .52 cents ??))) of the thermisters from Digikey and will try using your information. Can’t lose anything .. doesn’t work properly anyways. What happens with my coffee maker is: It will brew about 2-3 cups and shut off. I removed the thermistor (unclipped it from the side of the brewing element) and it brewed the 12 cups … worked fine … did this several times. You have to be carful and shut the brewing unit OFF after the brewing is done or you can start a fire. The brewing element will get RED hot and melt everything and possibly start a fire if you don’t shut the brewing cycle OFF after brewing. So beware people. I will update this posting after I replace that thermistor. Thanks .. you oldturkey !

I have a dcc1200 that stopped brewing. I ordered the thermistor from Digikey. Now my problem: I unclipped the silver piece where the yellow wires go. One yellow wire covered by a white sheath goes into each side. The thermistor is a thin wire with what looks like 2 small beads attached. My guess is I have to somehow remove the wires from each side of the silver piece and then the thermistor goes in to the silver piec and somehow attaches to the yellow wires. Is this correct? If so how do I take the wires off the silver piece. If not, has the part changed? I have part BC2467-ND from Digikey. I thought the picture on their website was different when I ordered this on Sunday. thank you

Anyone still following this thread here in 2018? I’m having the same problem and was able to order just a handful for thermistors for 5 bucks! Will update when repair is complete….